Critique Livre : Le mental du grimpeur â Book review: Le mental du grimpeur (+ interview)
GrĂące Ă LĂ©o Dechamboux et Fred Vionnet, le livre âLe mental du grimpeurâ propose une synthĂšse exhaustive des diffĂ©rents outils de prĂ©paration mentale Ă mettre en place en escalade. AprĂšs une prĂ©face de Nico Pelorson mettant en exergue le fait que les aspects mentaux, pourtant trĂšs importants, sont souvent minimisĂ©s et peu travaillĂ©s par rapport aux aspects physiques, lâouvrage se dĂ©compose en 3 parties. Une premiĂšre partie, assez thĂ©orique, dĂ©crit les stratĂ©gies de prĂ©paration mentale en diffĂ©rentes habiletĂ©s mentales, Ă utiliser en fonction des situations, de maniĂšre Ă optimiser sa performance : la fixation dâobjectifs, la gestion de sa motivation, de son attention, ⊠Une seconde partie, assez gĂ©nĂ©rale, dĂ©cline lâentrainement mental au quotidien, en terme de planification annuelle pour se fixer des objectifs, de dĂ©veloppement de sa confiance en soi, de gestion de sa zone de confort ; les auteurs y dĂ©finissent des axes de travail par rapport Ă ses points faibles ou encore ponctuellement pour se prĂ©parer Ă une Ă©chĂ©ance. Une derniĂšre partie, trĂšs concrĂšte, met en lumiĂšre tous les dispositifs qui sâoffrent au grimpeur afin dâoptimiser sa performance pendant sa sĂ©ance, Ă travers des stratĂ©gies de mĂ©morisation, de prĂ©paration Ă lâeffort, la mise en place de routines, la gestion des peurs, de la concentration, de la combativitĂ©,⊠Enfin, la gestion des Ă©motions, lâimportance de la dynamique de groupe et de lâesprit de cordĂ©e, lâanalyse et le bilan de sĂ©ance sont aussi Ă©tudiĂ©s. TrĂšs pĂ©dagogique et utile pour tout pratiquant (grimpeur, coach, parent), « Le mental du grimpeur » propose un bel effort de vulgarisation sur un des thĂšmes clĂ©s de lâentrainement en escalade. GrĂące Ă une architecture claire, des tĂ©moignages de top grimpeurs, des exemples imagĂ©s, de nombreux tableaux et encadrĂ©s explicatifs et des situations clĂ© en main trĂšs concrĂštes, ce livre sera utile afin de faire le point sur les incontournables de la prĂ©paration mentale, afin de sensibiliser sur ces aspects souvent Ă©ludĂ©s.

Quelques mots Ă©changĂ©s avec LĂ©o Dechamboux, co-auteur de lâouvrage.
â Peux-tu te prĂ©senter ?
CĂŽtĂ© perso, je suis un grimpeur, jâaime surtout me retrouver dehors, dans des endroits qui comptent, avec des amis, et partager des moments autour de cette activitĂ© qui mâaccompagne depuis pas mal dâ annĂ©es maintenant. Ă cĂŽtĂ© de ça, jâai Ă©videmment des projets qui me tiennent Ă cĆur, accompagnĂ©s de toutes les joies et les frustrations que ça peut occasionner. Pour parler de ma formation, jâai suivi un parcours un peu classique : celui du lycĂ©en qui fait de la compĂ©tition et qui nâa pas de supers rĂ©sultats scolaires, Ă qui ce format ne correspond pas beaucoup et qui file en STAPS Ă Grenoble pour continuer de grimper le plus possible, et qui a du mal Ă se projeter Ă long terme. Sauf quâune fois arrivĂ© Ă Grenoble, lâautonomie et la diversitĂ© des cours que jâai pu suivre mâont beaucoup plu et lâentraĂźnement (entre autres) est vraiment devenu quelque chose dâattrayant pour moi. Je voulais tout comprendre et pensais pouvoir rationaliser un paquet de paramĂštres de la performance. Jâai donc terminĂ© ma licence entraĂźnement, puis jâai passĂ© le DEJEPS perfectionnement sportif (une des premiĂšres sessions il me semble), avant de reprendre la fac Ă Montpellier avec un master en prĂ©paration mentale (accessible avec une licence entraĂźnement ou une licence de psycho). En sortant de ce master, je ne savais toujours pas trop oĂč je voulais bosser, ni exactement quoi faire ; mĂȘme si la prĂ©paration mentale semblait ĂȘtre au centre de mes intĂ©rĂȘts. Il se trouve que plusieurs opportunitĂ©s me sont tombĂ©es dessus : un poste dâenseignant vacataire Ă lâUFRAPS de Grenoble pour enseigner la psycho du sport, un poste au club DVE (oĂč jâavais fait mes stages de licence et de DEJEPS) en tant quâentraĂźneur, et un poste de prĂ©parateur mental au pĂŽle espoir de Voiron qui allait voir le jour. Jâai donc acceptĂ© les trois et me suis rĂ©installĂ© Ă Grenoble. Depuis deux ans, jâai arrĂȘtĂ© dâentraĂźner pour me focaliser au maximum sur lâaccompagnement psychologique des sportifs, la formation dâentraĂźneurs et lâĂ©criture.
â Quelles sont tes influences et grandes idĂ©es en matiĂšre dâentrainement ?
Jâai un parcours trĂšs universitaire. Donc mon approche de lâentraĂźnement a dâabord Ă©tĂ© trĂšs rationnelle. Mais quand jâai commencĂ© Ă entraĂźner, mĂȘme si jâai toujours gardĂ© ce regard, ce qui me plaisait le plus câĂ©tait lâaccompagnement des grimpeurs vers leurs objectifs sportifs, mais aussi le cĂŽtĂ© Ă©ducatif. Voir les gens grandir, faire leurs choix, les accompagner et mâadapter Ă leurs fonctionnements est ce qui mâa le plus portĂ©. Mais je nâai pas fait dâentraĂźnement assez longtemps et Ă assez haut niveau pour pouvoir dire que jâai dâimmenses convictions, si ce nâest le besoin dâindividualisation et la nĂ©cessitĂ© de toujours conserver un esprit critique par rapport Ă des mĂ©thodes, notamment celles qui semblent ĂȘtre des recettes miracles. Je serais plus Ă mĂȘme de parler de mes influences et convictions dans le cadre de la prĂ©pa mentale, câest vraiment ma spĂ©cialitĂ© aujourdâhui, et je ne pense pas que je reviendrai un jour Ă entraĂźner dans le sens classique du terme ; du moins ce nâest pas en projet.

â Pourquoi te focaliser sur lâentrainement mental ?
Quand jâai passĂ© le DEJEPS, je savais que jâirai Ă Montpellier pour cette spĂ©cialisation âmentaleâ. Tout simplement parce que tous les cours de psycho, de psycho sociale et de psycho du sport mâont tout de suite fascinĂ©s quand jâĂ©tais en licence. Câest une spĂ©cialitĂ© vraiment riche, qui permet de comprendre ses propres fonctionnements, ceux du groupe, et ceux des athlĂštes. Et puis il y a un aspect que jâaime particuliĂšrement dans cette approche : câest le pas de cĂŽtĂ© par rapport Ă la performance. Je ne suis pas un Ă©niĂšme intervenant Ă graviter autour du sportif pour lâaider Ă ĂȘtre plus fort. En tout cas pas seulement. Mon rĂŽle est de proposer un espace de confiance dans lequel le grimpeur (notamment le compĂ©titeur) peut ĂȘtre autre chose quâun champion. Dans ce cadre, il peut amener des problĂ©matiques et des questionnements trĂšs variĂ©es, comme sa place dans le groupe, son projet professionnel qui nâest pas forcĂ©ment adaptĂ© Ă la vie de sportif, lâenvie dâarrĂȘter lâescalade, ou bien juste des soucis plus personnels. LâidĂ©e est dâouvrir cette porte et dâaccompagner au mieux la personne vers des choix qui servent son Ă©quilibre global, son autonomie et son bien ĂȘtre psychologique, avant la performance. Bref, je trouve le regard de la prĂ©paration mentale trĂšs riche humainement, et vraiment nĂ©cessaire dans un systĂšme oĂč lâĂ©lite sportive est trĂšs valorisĂ©e, parfois au dĂ©triment de la santĂ© des plus performants, mais aussi de ceux qui nâaccĂšdent pas au haut-niveau.
â Avec Fred, comment vous est venue lâidĂ©e dâĂ©crire un bouquin ?
Jâai toujours aimĂ© Ă©crire, je lâai fait occasionnellement pour Grimper et EscaladeMag quand jâĂ©tais Ă la fac, pour arrondir les fins de mois. Jâai adorĂ© les travaux de MĂ©moire en master : prendre un sujet prĂ©cis, en devenir spĂ©cialiste, et transmettre ça Ă lâĂ©crit dans un format trĂšs rĂ©glementĂ©. Il y a presque deux ans, jâai renouĂ© avec un projet qui me tenait Ă cĆur depuis un moment : Ă©crire un grand dossier sur la prĂ©pa mentale en escalade. LĂ encore jâai adorĂ© comprendre la demande, adapter le fond et la forme, rĂ©pondre au mieux au cadre et aux codes de Grimper pour proposer un sujet accessible et pointu Ă la fois⊠En Ă©crivant ce dossier, je mâĂ©tais fait la rĂ©flexion selon laquelle un livre mâaurait permis de vraiment approfondir le sujet. Jâen ai parlĂ© Ă quelques proches et jâai rangĂ© lâidĂ©e. Quelques mois aprĂšs la sortie de ce dossier, NoĂ©mie Ponton de GlĂ©nat mâappelle. On ne se connaissait pas et elle mâa prĂ©sentĂ© le projet de ce qui sâappelle aujourdâhui âle mental du grimpeurâ. Elle en est Ă lâorigine.. Dans un premier temps elle avait contactĂ© Marc CarrĂšre qui nâest pas spĂ©cialiste de lâescalade, et qui avait acceptĂ© Ă condition de pouvoir lâĂ©crire avec Fred, qui lui est entraĂźneur en escalade. Marc nâa finalement pas pu se lancer dans le projet. Fred a alors parlĂ© de moi Ă NoĂ©mie et câĂ©tait parti ! LĂ , ça fait un an que jâai reçu le coup de fil, et chaque Ă©tape du projet Ă©tait passionnante ! JâespĂšre vraiment que les grimpeurs et les grimpeuses de tous niveaux qui souhaitent sâintĂ©resser Ă ce sujet trouveront des rĂ©ponses et sâempareront de ce quâon a pu proposer.

Written by LĂ©o Dechamboux and Fred Vionnet, âLe mental du grimpeurâ offers an exhaustive synthesis of the various mental preparation tools used in climbing. After a preface by Nico Pelorson highlighting the fact that the mental aspects, however very important, are often minimized compared to the physical aspects, the book is divided into 3 parts. A first part, quite theoretical describes the strategies of mental preparation in different mental skills, to be used according to the situations in order to optimize its performance: the goals fixing, the management of its motivation, its attention,⊠A second part quite general, declines mental training on a daily basis, in terms of annual planning to set goals, develop self-confidence, manage your comfort zone and define lines of work in relation to your weak points or even occasionally to prepare for a deadline. A last part, very concrete, highlights all the devices available to the climber in order to optimize his performance during his session, through memorizing strategies, preparation for the effort, the implementation of routines, the management of fears, concentration, fighting spirit, etc. Finally, the management of emotions, the importance of group dynamics, communication, the trust to the belayer, the analysis of the climbing session are also studied. Very educational and useful for all climbers (climbers, coaches, parents), âLe mental du grimpeurâ offers a great effort to popularize one of the key themes of climbing training. Thanks to a clear architecture, testifies from top climbers, pictorial examples, numerous tables, examples and very concrete turnkey situations, this book will be useful in order to highlight the essentials of mental preparation, and to be aware about these forgotten aspects.

Interview with LĂ©o Dechamboux, co-author of the book
Can you introduce yourself?
Iâm a climber, I especially like being outside, in places that matter, with friends, and sharing moments around this activity which has joined me for quite a few years now. Besides that, I obviously have projects that are close to my heart, with all the joys and frustrations that can cause. To talk about my training, I followed a somewhat classic path: that of the high school student who competes and who doesnât have great academic results, to whom this format doesnât correspond very much and who goes to Sport university in Grenoble to continue to climb as much as possible, and who has trouble planning for the long term. Except that once I arrived in Grenoble, I really liked the autonomy and the diversity of the lessons I was able to follow and the training (among other things) really became something attractive for me. I wanted to figure it all out and thought I could streamline a bunch of performance aspects. So I finished my diploma, then I passed the DEJEPS (new diploma for being climbing instructor in France, one of the first sessions it seems to me), before going back to university in Montpellier with a masterâs degree in mental preparation. Coming out of this masterâs, I still didnât really know where I wanted to work, or exactly what to do; even though mental preparation seemed to be at the center of my interests. It so happened that several opportunities went: a temporary professorship at the Sort university of Grenoble to teach sports psychology, a place as trainer at the climbing association around, and an opportunity as mental coach at the French climbing team center in Voiron. So I accepted all three jobs and moved back to Grenoble. Two years ago, I stopped coaching to focus as much as possible on the psychological support of athletes, the training of coaches and writing.
â What are your influences and big ideas in training?
I have a very academic background. So my approach to training was very rational at first. But when I started to train, even if I always kept this side, what I liked the most was the accompaniment of the climbers towards their sporting goals, but also the educational side. Seeing people grow, making their choices, accompanying them and adapting to their ways of training is the thing which satisfied me the most. But I havenât trained long an strong enough to be able to say that I have immense convictions, except for the need for individualization and the need to always keep a critical mind to training process, especially those that seem to be miracle recipes. I will be better able to talk about my influences and convictions within the framework of mental preparation, it is really my specialty today, and I donât think that I will one day return to coaching in the classic sense of the term; at least itâs not planned.
â Why did you turn on mental aspects in climbing?
When I passed the climbing instructor diploma, I knew that I would go to Montpellier for this âmentalâ specialization. Quite simply because all the psychology, social psychology and sports psychology lessons immediately fascinated me when I was in my bachelorâs degree. It is a really rich specialty, which allows you to understand your own functioning, the one of the group, and the one of the athletes. And then there is an aspect that I particularly like in this approach: itâs the step aside in relation to performance. Iâm not yet another voice to gravitate around the athlete to help him be stronger. In any case not only. My role is to offer a space of trust in which the climber (especially the competitor) can be something other than a champion. In this context, he can bring up very varied problems and questions, such as his place in the group, his professional project which is not necessarily adapted to the life of an athlete, the desire to stop climbing, or even just more personal concerns. The idea is to open this door and to best support the person towards choices that serve their overall balance, their autonomy and their psychological well-being, before performance. In short, I find the perspective of mental preparation very rich humanly, and really necessary in a system where the sporting elite is highly valued, sometimes to the detriment of the health, but also of those who do not reach the top -level.
â How went the idea to write a book with Fred?
I always liked to write, I did it occasionally for Grimper Magazin when I was in university. I loved the Masterâs thesis work: taking a specific subject, becoming a specialist in it, and transmitting it in writing in a very regulated format. Almost two years ago, I returned to a project that had been close to my heart for a while: to write a large article on mental preparation in climbing. Here again I loved understanding the request, adapting the content and the form, answering as well as possible to the framework and the codes of Grimper Magazine to propose an accessible and deep subject at the same time⊠When writing this file, I had thought that a book would allowed me to really dig on the subject. I talked to a few relatives about it and I put the idea away. A few months after the publication of this article, NoĂ©mie Ponton from GlĂ©nat called me. We didnât know each other and she introduced me to the project of what is now called âLe mental du grimpeurâ. She is at the origin of it. At first she had contacted Marc CarrĂšre who isnât a climbing specialist, and who accepted to write it on condition of being able to write it with Fred, who is a climbing coach. Marc was ultimately unable to start on the project. Fred then spoke to NoĂ©mie about me and off we went! There, itâs been a year since I received the phone call, and each step of the project was exciting! I really hope that climbers of all levels who wish to take an interest in this subject and will find answers understand and use what we have been able to offer.
Lâarticle Critique Livre : Le mental du grimpeur â Book review: Le mental du grimpeur (+ interview) est apparu en premier sur Fanatic Climbing.